Published: 22/04/2010 at 12:00 AM
ผ่านทางThe Heat is on.
Unsullied by mass tourism and retaining most of its old-world charm, Trang makes a perfect break from city life
Few places scream summer louder than laid-back and relaxed seaside retreats.
The beach on Koh Rok ensures complete isolation and privacy.
Travellers are drawn to the alluring elements of coastal destinations for one simple reason: uncomplicated, they always deliver a perfect vacation. Soaking in the pure sea breeze on fine sandy beaches is a classic way to unwind and rejuvenate your faculties, while the seemingly endless horizon at the edge of the deep blue sea exudes a fascinating sense of unrestricted freedom.
If you feel the urge to unwind at the end of a long day, repair to Ran Thuay Kai, a small retro cafe on Khok Lo Road. Its decor featuring an eclectic assortment of collectable memorabilia from yesteryear will transport you back to a time when the pace of life was less frenetic.
Though beaches feature prominently on my summer calendar, mass tourist seaside destinations with hectic nightlife, sleazy red light parties, business-oriented hospitality, ridiculously overpriced dining options and rip-off transportation shut me off.
Since peace and solitude on a tranquil beach was at the forefront of my mind, I settled for Trang, a modest low-profile destination on the Andaman coast.
And it didn’t let me down.
With international tourists continuing to flock to neighbouring Krabi or Phuket, Trang hasn’t witnessed as many foreign faces or been commercialised on a scale similar to more famous beach strips along this stretch of the Andaman.
Trang’s iconic motorised transport as well as old-school morning shophouses, the repository of its sumptuous culinary heritage, still play a pivotal role in the locals’ everyday life, just as they did in yesteryear. The cordial demeanour of the local people, it seems, is not only influenced by the bucolic charm of islands nearby, but also their unhurried pace of life untrammelled by mass tourism.
The province remains original and unsullied as ever, making it ideal for retracing the past and escaping the chaotic reality of urban life.
Considering its pretty sleepy and preserved character, Trang, on the other hand, also boasts a vibrant array of attractions.
Entire mornings or afternoons can be whiled away indulging in traditional restaurants and coffee shops that dot the nooks and crannies of downtown area. More adventurous breed of travellers can row through caverns, but for those looking for light recreation probably nothing beats resting amid the seductive surroundings of the sea, bright sun and the sound of waves lapping the beach.
My first foray to Trang turned out to be everything I’d looked forward to and I’m sure I shall be returning there for more.
A popular way to explore the town area is by a mode of transport unique to the province, the ‘tuk-tuk hua kob’, a motorised tricycle which ferries commuters like a taxi. This quaint symbol of Trang dates back to the late 1950s when it first arrived from Japan. Unlike its ubiquitous cousin in Bangkok, tuk-tuk hua kob (translates as a ‘tuk-tuk’ whose front is shaped like a frog’s head) is attention grabbing indeed. While the Bangkok tuk-tuks are manoeuvred with handle bar, these are controlled with steering wheel instead. Each tuk-tuk hua kob can take six passengers on two benches in the rear. And yes, always bargain the fare; it shouldn’t exceed 30 baht unless you’re heading out of town.
To the west of Hat Chao Mai National Park is the Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot in Thai). You enter it via a small passage on Koh Muk’s western side and then wind 80 metres through a dark tunnel before emerging at a lagoon with crystal clear water and powdery white beach circled by towering limestone cliffs.
The channel is wide enough for small inflatable boats or kayaks to pass at low tide, but the real challenge lies in getting to the lagoon on your own, by swimming. Most visitors play safe, clinging to each other in single-file before moving into the tunnel. The excitement builds up as you snake deeper into total darkness until a shaft of light appears, signalling end of the cave. The procedure is repeated on the way out.
Perhaps the most exquisite of all Trang and Krabi islands is Koh Rok, for its vast stretch of captivating beaches and unspoiled nature are well worth the hourlong ride by speedboat it takes to get there from mainland Trang. Koh Rok refers to two isles, Rok Nai and Rok Nok, sitting next to each other separated by a narrow strip of sea. Both islands are devoid of tourist resorts but Rok Nok, which is home to a protection unit of Moo Koh Lanta National Park, offers accommodation and camping facilities if you wish to stay the night. There is a single cooperative store but it is poorly stocked. Travellers, therefore, are advised to carry their own food. Koh Rok boasts abundant natural resources both on land and under the sea. You can soak up the sun on fine sandy beaches or enjoy a dip in the sparkling blue sea, and for the while forget the chaotic world outside.
The turquoise sea around the islands of Chueak, Ma and Kradan is home to a diverse species of marine life, which explains why this area is usually crowded with snorkellers.
If a cosy night spent on a secluded island figures high on your travel agenda, Koh Ngai should fit the bill perfectly. Adjacent to Koh Chueak and Koh Ma, and around 15 kilometres from Pak Meng Pier, the island offers the widest choice of quality beachfront resorts and bungalows with comfortable, well-equipped rooms —when compared to other islands off mainland Trang—making Koh Ngai both an ideal romantic getaway and family destination. In addition to a sweeping panorama of sandy beaches and several awesome out-of-the-way seaside retreats, Guan Yin Cape in Koh Ngai’s south is also a popular dive and snorkelling spot, thanks to rows of spectacular sea fans and shoals of colourful fish.
Although Trang’s nightlife might not be as active as in some neighbouring tourist destinations, weekends in the town are not completely lacking in colour. Friday through Sunday the ground in front of the provincial railway station turns into a lively hub, Chan-Chala, where local bands and vendors gather to enliven the evening with songs, fancy snacks and street food.
Stalls selling food and local goods at knock-down prices. These range from screened T-shirts, accessories, paintings, photo prints, antiques and vintage retro collectables to numerous forms of handicraft products that make lovely souvenirs. The Chan- Chala walking street operates from 5pm to 10.30pm every weekend.
Trang is known for its gastronomy so it’s no surprise delectable dishes await visitors at almost every street corner. Dining in this backwater settlement is a culinary adventure, and one dish tourists and locals enjoy equally is dim sum, traditionally consumed at breakfast in omnipresent coffee shops. These open-air shophouses make early morning eating a delightful experience, given the array of dim sum they serve. Either steamed or fried, they come in all shapes and sizes, and are served in bamboo steamers or in small bowls and plates.
You might think this piggy is a leftover from Chinese worship. In fact, it is a breakfast staple of Trang people. Most morning restaurants serve roast pork. The entire pig is marinated for several hours before being roasted until it takes on a red-brown tinge. This relatively slow cooking method gives the pork a crunchy, crispy skin while the meat remains tender and juicy on the inside.
From a cultural standpoint, coffee and tea houses have for ever been part of the traditional lifestyle of Trang people. One of them is Koh Chaeng, a modest tea shop nestled in a narrow alley on Sai Ngarm Road. Its layout and decor is old-world and nostalgic, the aura reinforced by the presence of elderly locals who can be seen congregating there all day over hot cups of tea or coffee, while students swarm the place after school.
Items on the menu reflect the owner’s passion for tea and coffee, and his ingenuity in creating something different—hot or cold. His must-try specialties range from assorted teas including full-bodied Chinese, fragrant herbal, sweetscented fruit and spicy Indian-style brews. Japanese-influenced syphon coffee and teen favourites like flavoured sodas, iced green tea sprinkled with Milo powder or milk blended with jasmine aroma are the most popular choices among his customers, said the owner.
Tham Le Khao Kob in Huai Yot district is an ecotourist attraction in the midst of limestone mountains and rubber plantations bisected by a waterway. The fun of touring Tham Le begins with a cruise along the stream that flows into the cave. The boat ride alternates with exploration on foot of grottoes bearing astonishing variations of still-evolving stalagmite and stalactite formations.
Each boat is accompanied by two guides, one in front and the other at the back. At some points, especially the last 300 metres of the cave, the ceiling dips frighteningly low which requires everyone to lie flat on their backs while the guides propel the boat using the cave’s roof for grip. In case you can’t imagine how close it can get to the roof of the cave, this picture was captured as the ceiling kept receding until it was so low that it was practically impossible to train the camera.
Residents of ‘tambon’ Khao Kob make their living selling these unique handmade OTOP items carved from the roots of the native ‘theptaro’ tree. Sold at souvenir shops near the cave, they come in various shapes and appearances ranging from crockery and tea receptacles to Buddha statues and dugongs, which is a symbol of the province.
About the author
- Writer: Patsinee Kranlert
- Position: Reporter
Smoke and ash from the Eyjafjallajokull volcano make their way across a field near Nupur. Iceland’s Eyjafjoell volcano has started spewing out less ash, a sign the eruption could be tapering off and that Europe’s air traffic nightmare could be coming to an end, experts said Monday.
Ground staff of Lufthansa airline work at Narita International Airport in Tokyo. Airlines have urged governments to reopen routes through the volcanic ash cloud over Europe, branding the flight ban a “European mess”.
Cancelled flights are listed at Brussels National Airport in Zaventem. EU transport ministers are set to hold a video conference on the volcanic ash cloud blowing across Europe, which has left millions of passengers stranded around the globe.
An aircraft with its engines covered with plastic protection is parked in front of the control tower at Geneva International Airport, April 18, as planes are grounded following the volcanic eruption in Iceland. Europe on Sunday ordered a probe into billions of euros potentially lost since an Icelandic volcano erupted, prompting the biggest airspace shutdown since World War II.
A departure board shows delayed outbound flights at the International Airport in Hong Kong on April 16. From Wellington to Tokyo, passengers heading to Europe faced an uncertain wait as the eruption of Iceland’s Eyjafjallajokull volcano forced the biggest shutdown of airspace since the September 11 attacks in 2001.
Even in ruins, the majestic splendour of Wat Mahathat, the largest and most significant of temples from its era, never fails to impress visitors to the historical park. The pagoda seen in the back of the Buddha statue is in typical Sukhothai style.
Wat Sa Si is the venue of a light and sound presentation held the first Saturday of every month, narrating the history of Sukhothai and its monarchs. Also showcased are local traditions and festivals through song and dance, the most colourful being a procession of drums and Buddhit Lent merit-making. The show ends in an explosion of fireworks. Taped translation of the narration is available in English, Japanese and French.
Advancing age hasn’t kept Uncle Chai from his routine of mending boats and going out fishing with friends at Kong Krailat community. However, he did complain about the flight of youth to Bangkok, lured by better work conditions and higher salary. His greatest joy these days is imparting local wisdom to whoever is prepared to learn from him. The day I visited he was planning to go fishing with his grandson that same evening.
It must be tedious for these migrant Lao workers sifting through the day’s catch, but they never complain for they are happy to have a job at Kong Krailat community. Given the small size of fish, it takes great patience and a good eye to sort fresh from rotten ones, and then packaging them, before sending out to factories that produce fish sauce.
Fermented fish is a staple of Kong Krailat, notably available at Ko Chiean Jae Chew, one of the oldest shops opening nearly 40 years ago. Fish used in making the dish is caught in the Yom River, and good quality salt and ground rice are added during the fermentation to kill unpleasant odour. Here, a daughter of the shop owner opens the lids of buckets containing fermented fish to prove it doesn’t smell foul at all.
Visitors with sweet tooth will relish dishes traditional to Kong Krailat, such as ‘thong muan’ golden rolls and ‘khanom phing’ made from coconut milk, tapioca flour, sugar, salt and eggs. The recipe has been passed down families over generations. Visitors, too, can try making them. I tried ‘khanom phing’, starting by heating coconut milk, egg yolk and sugar in a saucepan until it simmered, after which I left it to cool down. Then I added flour and kneaded until it blended with the mixture, covered it and left it alone for about 10 hours. I came back the next day to see the dough being baked on an old charcoal stove. Needless to say my khanom phing tasted delicious, not too sweet.
Farming aside, Sukhothai’s Organic Agriculture Project also educates visitors about the virtues of chemical-free vegetables and fruits; it’s like a licence to good health and longevity. Our tour began with a welcome drink extracted from rice grass leaves, which is quite refreshing. Wrapped in neat plastic bags were sun-dried organic bananas, which tasted nice. After a brief orientation, we visited a greenhouse and an organic vegetable and fruit garden. Courses in old methods of farming are also available, as are farm implements and clothes, just in case the urge to do some ploughing, planting and harvesting takes over. For accommodation, there is a homestay facility. The farm only uses natural fertiliser like manure and crushed green beans, and for water to irrigate the fields it relies on rain. At the end of the tour we were served mixed vegetable salad, the ingredients sourced from its organic garden.
After harvest women at the farm sort out rice grains by hand. Yes, you got it right! The quality has to be exceptional because it is destined for supermarkets. They only take short breaks to rest their eyes before returning to the arduous task of separating unrefined grains from the healthy ones, which to the untrained eyes look very similar.
We rode an ‘e-tan’ farm truck to watch water buffaloes take an afternoon swim. There were hundreds of them, kept in an enclosure whose gate was held ajar inviting them to step out. They were hesitant at first—it wasn’t time yet for we’d arrived early—but after some coaxing emerged and rushed headlong to a pond for much-needed respite from the blazing sun.
Ban Thung Luang takes great pride in moulding terracotta products, something it’s done for generations, initially for personal use but now also for sale to tourists. In the old days its residents only made pottery in their free time—when not working the farms—but today it is big business. The process starts with mixing clay and fine sand, compressing the mix, sculpturing and designing, after which the pieces are left to dry in the sun. The final step involves burning them in a charcoal-fired furnace.
Pata forecasts tourism to pick up over the next three years.
Tourists enjoy the Songkran festival on Khao San Road yesterday, a day after the street was the scene of clashes between security officers and anti-government demonstrators. Many travellers are hoping there will not be a recurrence of the events that took place on Saturday. JETJARAS NA RANONG
Dressed like Superman, this kid learns to fly kite.
❖ The reclining image of Buddha at Phra Buddha Saiyat Temple at the foot of the hill atop which perches the Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace (also known as Khao Wang). The 43-metres-long image cast during the Ayutthaya period, it’s said, was in need of an ubosot, duly provided by King Rama IV.
❖ Wat Yai Suwannaram dated back to the Ayutthaya period but has not attained the status of a royal temple until the time of King Rama V of Rattanakosin. According to the abbot, the word ‘Yai’ in the temple’s name refers to the vast plot of land it occupies, while ‘Suwannaram’ came from the name of Somdet Phra Suwan Munee, a Supreme Patriarch during the Ayutthaya period who spent his early years in the monkhood at this temple. Among the highlights of Wat Yai Suwannaram is the ordination hall which houses mural paintings more than 400 years old and a seated Buddha with 6 toes on the right foot. The temple also boasts a large teakwood house which once served as residence of Somdet Phra Suwan Munee.The seat from where he addressed his audience is on display, still in good shape.
❖ Also built during the Ayutthaya period, the ubosot of Wat Koh Kaew Sutharam boasts prominent murals on its walls painted red depicting the faces of foreigners —Chinese, Indian and Western. The temple is the nucleus of Wat Koh community.
❖ Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park can be spotted from afar atop a hill from Highway 4. Locals call it Khao Wang, and it is the province’s first summer palace. Built in 1859 by King Rama IV, it was turned into a museum in 1989. Well kept, it boasts a complex of residential and court buildings. Visitors can observe his reception room, bedrooms, living room and bathroom. The King also had a temple built on the east side, Wat Phra Kaew Noi, mimicking the Temple of the Emerald Buddha next to the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Between the summer palace and the temple is a white stupa, Phra That Chom Phet, where the relics of Buddha are enshrined. Khao Wang is also home to monkeys. They do not pay you attention unless you have something for them to eat. The palace is featured on the logo of Phetchaburi Province.
❖ Bang Taboon residents have long banked on mangrove forest for wood they use to produce charcoal. Mangrove charcoal is known for quality, for it doesn’t give off sparks when burned. These days only two kilns are still firing as chacoal’s popularity as cooking fuel has declined in recent years. The igloo-shaped kilns are made of bricks coated with a mixed texture of soil and sand. Dry logs are stacked inside and burned for 15 days, followed by a 15-day cooling period. Bang Taboon sits by the Bang Taboon River just before it empties into the Gulf of Thailand. A fishing village, its residents are also adept at cockle farming. They use ‘kateng’ wooden shacks built on stilts as shelters when guarding their aquatic farms.
❖ Fancy kites larger than life are a major draw. Unfortunately, they were on view only during the 11th Thailand International Kite Festival that took place in Cha-am last month. Venues of the biennial event, which began in 1989, rotates around tourist destinations such as Sanam Luang, Pattaya and Ayutthaya.
❖ A visitor interfacing with a game dealing with wastes at Sirindhorn International Environment Park on Phetchakasem Road. Opened in 2005, the park is dedicated to Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn who turned 48 that year. The main building is features eight exhibition rooms focusing on energy generation, alternative sources of energy, and future energy crises. Also on view is a pencil HM the King used when working on his farreaching forest rehabilitation initiative launched in 1983. The Princess, meanwhile, has taken part by planting tree saplings, and the park has been able to reclaim 200 ‘rai’ of mangrove forest, says park Deputy Director Dr Sonjai Havanond. Eco-tourism activities such as bird watching, canoeing and trekking are available to park visitors.
❖ Two iconic landmarks in ‘tambon’ Tad Thong of Muang district have their roots in a heart-rending folklore involving a matricidal farmer. The first, Khong Khao Noi pagoda surrounded by vast paddies in Ban Tad Thong is believed to have been built during the late Ayutthaya period. This tall stupa strikes viewers with its square Lanchang architecture reminiscent of ancient Laos. Its outstretched double-tiered base boasts 12 indented corners, while its concave mid-section features four-sided arched niches. Each of them is adorned with a carved floral and swirling flame-like ‘kranok’ motif tapering upward.
❖ Other sources, of a scholarly type, meanwhile attribute an humble brick edifice in the compound of Wat Thung Sadao to the Khong Khao Noi legend. This octagonal structure is considered more pertinent to the lore due to its simple, modest features. On the other hand, the presence of ‘sema’ boundary markers around the larger pagoda in Ban Tad Thong, coupled with the structure’s elegance are arguably too sophisticated and beyond the competence of a common villager, debunking the connection between the Khong Khao Noi story and the stupa.
❖ The Malai Khaotok parade is a century-old merit-making tradition unique to Maha Chana Chai district. Performed every Makha Bucha Day, it is held to commemorate Lord Buddha’s preaching of his first sermon to 1,250 disciples, who by some miracle happened to congregate at the Veluvan Temple on the occasion under a full moon.
❖ Phra That Yasothon is the temple’s principal architecture. Built around 675 AD by two devout Lao worshippers from Vientiane, this square-base pagoda is believed to house the holy relics of Phra Anon, Lord Buddha’s personal attendant.
❖ One of Wat Mahathat’s highlights is Phra Buddha Patimakorn Bussayarat, a tiny flawless Buddha statue in meditation posture. The image—exquisitely carved from crystal-clear glass—lives up to the name by which it is better known, Phra Kaeo Yod Nam Kang, which literally translates as ‘the Buddha image clear as a dew drop’.
❖ The principal attraction at Wat Phra Buddha Bat in Maha Chana Chai district is the country’s largest white emerald image, Phra Buddha Lokanat, cast in graceful meditation posture which sits in the temple’s ordination hall.
❖ The church never fails to amaze visitors with its size—16-metrewide and 57-metre-long— assembled from 227 wooden poles and 80,000 wooden roofing sheets. From glazed ceramic angels to crucifix and fretwork depicting the Last Supper, the interior decoration is truly orthodox Christian, as well as a tribute to the magnificent skills of local artisans.
❖ Christianity took root in Ban Song Yae in Thai Charoen district of Yasothon a century ago, evident from this monumental landmark in the heart of the community. Christian influence permeated the village for the first time in 1909. A humble hut erected as a personage for two foreign clergymen as well as a place for worship constituted the original Song Yae church, that later went through three reconstructions in response to an increasing number of Catholics. What you see today is the fourth version, borne out of spiritual harmony. The whole building was put together by villagers relying on sheer manual power. Work began in 1947 but it wasn’t until 1953 that first outlines of its Thai-style architecture became evident.
❖ Each of the ‘kwan’ pillows comprises small triangular pods, and its size varies according to the number of these threepointed tubes that make up the finished item. During manufacturing pieces of weaved traditional fabrics like silk are sewed to form a conjoint pillow case. Every tube is then fully stuffed with straw and kapok before the open sides of the triangles are stitched together.
❖ The most prominent and symbolic handicraft of Yasothon is the ‘kwan’ pillow produced at Sri Than village in Pa Tiu district. The tradition can be traced back to the early 1960s, thanks to Samrid Chanluang, a senior resident who was impressed by its design and utility some 50 years ago during his time in Bangkok ordained as a monk. After leaving the monkhood he brought one such pillow to his wife back at the village. The two made some fine-tuning and turned it into a family business. Later, the know-how was passed on to other households in the village. These days, ‘kwan’ pillows have become the main source of income for villagers. Over times, designs of the pillows have evolved to serve the needs of a diversifying clientele. They now come in several forms ranging from neck pillows to back-supporting bolsters with foldable seating configuration.
❖ Prior to Makha Bucha Day, local residents roast copious amounts of unmilled sticky rice in clay pots. The popped rice is threaded into quaintlooking garlands while other colourful adornments such as plastic or crepepapered flowers and vivid beads are added to enhance their distinctive charm. The finished garlands form decorative parts of the brilliantly embellished parade taking place on the eve of Makha Bucha. Popped rice grains represent the fragrant ‘montharop’, a divine flower which blossomed and was witnessed only during major events surrounding the life of Lord Buddha—his birth, enlightenment, preaching of this sermon and nirvana.
❖ The Dong Muang Toei Archaeological Ruins in ‘tambon’ Song Puey of Kham Khuen Kaeo district is home to remnants of a pre-historic civilisation. A wide range of artefacts excavated around the site including ore cinder, earthenware, ‘sema’ stones and engraved red sandstone lintel known as ‘khutu’, are all evidence dating to the Metal Age and the Dvaravati period.
These century-old shophouses in Pakbang will be turned into a weekend market.
