Published: 5/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
ผ่านทางEastern Cornucopia.
When it comes to gastronomic tourism, any place in the world can be called a ”destination”. Yet, there are some parts of Thailand that seem destined to be genuine epicurean havens, and the eastern province of Chanthaburi is one of them.
With 3,000 square kilometres of lush green lowland, four major rivers and a coastline that streches over 110 kilometres, Chanthaburi, aka Muang Chan, is blessed with perfect geographic characters that support both land and oceanic cuisines. It is best known for the fresh fruit flourishes in its rich soil, while visitors can also count on the locality’s seafood that comes fresh from the Gulf of Thailand.
Chanthaburi is a land of orchard growers and home of the seductive durian and the snow-white mangosteen in its deep purple case _ known here as the king and queen of fruit. More than half of the province’s area is occupied by plantations growing durian, lang-sad, longan, long-gong, mangoesteen, rambutan, salacca and santol, to name only a few, and they have generated a major proportion of the province’s income.
Not surprisingly, then, one of the most famous gastronomic affairs visitors can experience in Chanthaburi is the fruit festival held in the rainy season from May to July. During the three-month-long celebration, local orchards will feature ”fruit buffets” in which visitors can enjoy all-they-can-eat fruit that they pick from the trees themselves. This will cost around 50-100 baht per person depending on the types of fruit each orchard offers, but basically they are all likely to include durian, mangosteen and rambutan.
The Cathedral of Immaculate Conception church on the bank of Chanthaburi River is one of the province’s most popular landmarks.
In terms of cuisine, the culinary heritage of Chanthaburi has been developed over a long time. The province’s history dates back to the 14th century, but it was officially put on the national chronicle in the 18th century when King Taksin, then Chao Phraya Wachiraprakan, made it a hub for assembling food supplies and manpower in order to fight the Burmese invaders, from whom he won back the country in 1767.
Exotic, old-style Thai dishes, almost similar to those of the Central Plain, is regarded as the authentic approach of Chanthaburi cuisine. Rich in texture and pungent in taste, dishes make full use of local vegetables, spices and herbs and are made with pork, beef and chicken, seafood and freshwater fish. Kaeng moo chamuang, or stewed pork with chamuang leaves; nam phrik poo khai, or egged crab with chilli dipping sauce, and kai tom krawan, or chicken soup with cardamon, are some of its most famous specialities.
However, thanks to the abundant orchard produces, tropical fruit has lately played a huge role in the local cuisine. Visitors can find at several local restaurants (see review on page 6) a number of newly-invented dishes dredged with pulps and pieces of fresh fruit and age-old savoury dainties that come with a magnificent fruity twist. Among today’s most employed ingredients are durian, mangosteen, pomelo, longan, salacca and long-gong.
But fruit isn’t the only food product worthy of acclaim. White pepper has long been cherished as one of Chanthaburi’s most valued goods. Nearly all _ more than 90 percent of pepper, black and white produced in Thailand _ is grown here and generates an export value of 50 million baht. Chanthaburi’s white pepper, or phrik thai muang chan, which is far more expensive than ordinary pepper, is highly praised for its taste and aroma, and is an important element in its cuisine.
Even though Chanthaburi is partly bordered by the Gulf of Thailand, its seafood is not as famous as that of other seaside provinces. Situated at the mouth of the river, its shores are studded with swamps and its coastal water is brackish, so it is not an ideal place for fisheries.
In terms of variety, however, Chanthaburi has almost every species of river and seafood one can ask for. Visitors can always find fish, prawn, crab, flathead lobster, squid, many varieties of shellfish and horseshoe crab. But in terms of quantity, it doesn’t harbour a great amount of marine produce, and this deficit has formed style of the area’s dishes.
Khanom luem kluen at Chanthaboon riverfront market.
Unlike Samut Sakhon, Samut Songkhram and Rayong, whose bountiful supply of fishery products is exported and industrially processed, Chanthaburi’s seafood is practically ”caught to order”, and appreciated for its freshness and prepared very simply by grilling and steaming and with little seasoning.
Sumptuous dishes can be found at a number of local river and seafood outlets (see review on page 6), in Tha Mai, Khlung, Laem Sing and Muang districts. These restaurants are often set by the pier or near swampy waters, but their not-so-exquisite surroundings are always compensated for by supreme freshness and keen flavour of their food, which comes at reasonable prices.
Kuay tiew moo lieng or kuay tiew nuea lieng (noodle with pork or beef in special soup) is another dish Muang Chan’s people hold dear. Strictly prepared according to local recipe, the soup is infused with local herbs and fruit such as roots of rew (bastard cardamom) and pineapple and yields a fragrant, sweet taste. There are several noodle joints in town that specialise in this dish (see story on page 6), and prices are usually cheap.
Speaking of noodles, sen chan, which loosely means “Chanthaburi noodle”, is one of the country’s most celebrated products that is already internationally known. Similar in appearance to sen lek (ordinary thin rice noodle), sen chan, manufactured according to Chanthaburi’s special formula, is chewier and more resilient comparing to its counterparts. It is perfect for stir-frying, and so forms a significant part of the world-famous phad thai.
When it comes to snacks and desserts, Chanthaburi people have come up with many intelligent ways to preserve and present its wealth of fruit varieties. Muang Chan is an ideal destination for those who are up for healthy snacks made with real fruit.
They come in forms of soft and chewy fruit toffee, fruit crisps, fruit pastries, dried fruit, glazed fruit and fruit in syrup, and are available everywhere from street-side food stores to fancy-looking souvenir shops. Among the most sought-after items are salacca in syrup, durian chips and mangosteen toffee.
Perhaps it is because they were born in a vicinity with an abundance of delicious food that falls from the trees and can be caught from the water, Chanthaburi people tend not to be easily moved by changing trends. This may be why they are so committed to preserving their local way of life and environment. It also means that, when visiting Chanthaburi, guests can always witness the unchanged lifestyle and savour genuine gastronomic delights.
An ideal location for this is the Chanthaboon riverfront community, or chumchon rim nam Chantaboon, in Yan Tha Luang, once a major trading hub of the region. The century-old community features a one-kilometre-long strip along the Chantaburi River lined with time-worn shops and food stalls, with a Buddhist temple at one end and a Gothic-style Catholic church at the other.
Visitors will find residences built in the reign of King Rama V here, with rustic eateries and coffee joints as well as a good number of snacks and desserts from the old days including khanom luem kluen, khanom ko, khanom khai, kleep lamduan, khanom dok jok and popsicles – all of them made in old-fashioned manner and rarely available nowadays.
With summer heading our way and schools about to take recess, Chanthaburi is proving to be an interesting destination well worth a visit. And it’s not all about food – visitors will find beaches and plantations, and also mountains, forests and waterfalls.
The province is also a home of the country’s only one dolphin sanctuary, Oasis Sea World, where visitors can swim and play with the lovely sea mammals. For those who plan to stay in town for a few nights (and you should), there are plenty of hotels and resorts at different prices that can accommodate you.
The century-old Chanthaboon riverfront community is starting to become the province’s new gastronomic and cultural destination.
Fresh tropical fruit including mangosteen and salacca and ‘‘caught to order’’ crab and flathead lobster deliciously represent Chanthaburi’s gastronomic identity.
Chanthaburi’s white pepper and a wide variety of fresh tropical fruit snacks are among the most sought-after souvenirs by visitors.
During May-July, orchard growers welcome visitors to join their ‘‘fruit buffets’’. (Right) Rambutan is another tropical fruit plentiful in Muang Chanthaburi.
Khanom khai, master of the riverfront community. (Right) Grilled fresh squid vendor at Khoong Wiman bay.
Relate Search: Chanthaburi, Muang Chan, Gulf of Thailand, King Taksin, Chao Phraya Wachiraprakan
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